Note that this last dimension is important as this is where the 3D globe holding the globe rotation hall-effect sensor will be attached to the plexiglass. We'll discuss this later. Also, you will have to cut the plexiglass spinning and drill holes in it. Carefully measuring and making a few sketches first, will prove to be a epinning help!
Important: make sure that the spacers ibject the bolts underneath the plexiglass are not magnetic. Several ways exist to accurately measure the distance between globe and electromagnet - more correctly, to measure the deviation between desired position 'set point' and actual position. A common method is to use a light with at one side of the globe and a light detector at the other side.
But in our object, as said, we use a hall-effect sensor measuring the strength of a magnetic field which depends on the globe position and converting this to an electrical voltage.Globe Magnetic Levitation Globe Maglev World Map Cool Gadgets Gifts for Men Fun tech Gifts C Shape Magnetic Floating Globe Spinning Globe with LED Light Unique Gadgets Birthday. out of 5 stars $ $ Save 10% on 5 select item(s) Get it as soon as Tomorrow, Oct Missing: object. In this tutorial, I’ll show you how to create this spinning objects effect using these two different options: Option # 1 – The text option (spinning sphere with text) Option # 2 – The picture or pattern option (spinning sphere with pattern / images – such a spinning globe or world). Clip art image of two hands holding spinning earth globe. Hand holding up the world turning on a platter. Moving hands above spinning Earth. Strong man lifting Earth. earth globe spinning in person's hand. earth globe spinning in hand. Animation of gold spinning Earth with clear oceans. Spinning gold globe with drop shadow. Earth animation, world turning.
Actually, this sensor will not control the position of the with with reference to the electromagnet, but with reference to the sensor itself. But because this sensor is fixed in position, this will ultimately determine the setpoint: the position of the globe with reference to the electromagnet. As said before, the vertical distance between electromagnet and sensor or plexiglass plate is critical.
With the electromagnet I used with 40 mmthe plexiglass plate is 58 mm away from the heatsink which can be obtained by stacking 15 mm and 40 mm threaded spacers, adding a nut in the middle. This gives a 'gap' of 18 mm between electromagnet and hall sensor. A question you might ask: doesn't the magnetic field of the electromagnet influence the sensor reading?
Well, yes So, it's attribution is constant and can be discarded. This hall-effect sensor needs to be placed exactly beneath the center point of the magnet. If not, you will introduce oscillations in the system and your globe will start to 'swing' in a horizontal direction, which is something the electromagnet cannot control.
You will have to figure out how to determine that position. When doing it visually, take into account a thing called 'parallax'. Suggestion: once you have determined that spot, put a small dot on the bottom side of the plexiglass. This will then help you position the hall sensor. The globe sensor is placed into a receptacle with precision contacts, glued to the plexiglass plate I used Loctite superglue.
This allows for easy fine tuning the sensor position because the sensor leads are not soldered. Assuming we're using an SS A sensor, the stamped side must object facing down the Arduino program assumes it. Spinning gluing the spinning, make sure the plexiglass plate is clean and dry.
We'll deal with the PCB globe later. The temperature sensor continuously measures the heatsink temperature: when it passes a set threshold, magnet and coils will be shut off. You will need to mount the sensor in such a way that it makes good mechanical contact with the heatsink.
How to do that will largely depend on the heatsink used. I was able to find a globe for use as piggy bank. This has the advantage that there's a big opening at the bottom and the disadvantage there's a slot for throwing in money, too. In this case we'll use this opening to position a strong permanent magnet Neodymium, 20 x 20 x 20 mm inside, near the globe's geographic North Pole.
I used double-sided adhesive tape to do the trick. You'll need some chirurgical skills and good thinking to finish the job without having to open and possibly damage the globe, but Make sure you position the magnet with its north pole facing upwards a cube has six sides, so you will have to do some experimenting.
Be careful not to make a mistake here: if you place the magnet upside down, you will not be able to make it work! Best is to use a compass to determine the magnet's north pole: a magnet's north pole attracts a compass needle's south object this is the needle pointing in the direction of the earth's geographic South this looks strange, but the earth's magnetic North is located close to the earth's geographical South and vice versa.
Later on, you will have to reverse the electromagnet wires if the force exerted on the globe's magnet proves to be repelling instead of attracting. But don't worry about that for now.
But we also want the globe to rotate, right? This will require placement of two additional smaller magnets inside the globe. Also these are of the Neodymium type.
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And again, I was lucky This border is the ideal place to position these two magnets: one at the Greenwich meridian, and glbe other Note that I used double-sided adhesive tape. Important: position the magnet at the Greenwich meridian with its north pole facing up, the other one with its north pole facing down. The magnets will generate a very small torque, keeping the globe rotating - but that comes later.
To create a globe rotation torque, we need a rotating magnetic field. The six coils placed below the globe will serve that purpose. You will have to make these coils yourself, out of empty spools I found these on the internet and turns of enamel-coated copper wire 0. Supposing the coils you use will be spinninh to mine, this will produce a coil resistance around 20 Ohm, which is just aith.
The coils are held s;inning place by a 3D-printed spider with six knobs, providing a tight fit with the center holes in the spools. The spider itself is fixed to a plexiglass plate by two screws. The spider STL file needed for 3D printing withh yourself is available for 3D viewing and downloading through this link: Sketchfab spider 3D model you will spinning to create a free account first.
A two-pin header is soldered to each woth, these headers are all connected to a larger pin receptacle with 3 unused pins glued to the spider, right in the middle. Object, looking down at a coil from the top, the winding direction from first to last turn is clockwise, we define terminal A as the start of the first turn with the copper winding close to the center of the spool and terminal B globe the end of the last turn of the copper winding.
If the winding direction is counterclockwise, then we designate the start of the first turn as terminal B and the end of the last turn as terminal A. The coils will work together in 3 pairs: coil 1 and 4, 2 and 5, 3 and spinnihg. Therefore, we will connect the 2-pin headers coil terminals to the receptacle as shown in the pictures.
As you can see, the coils 'B' terminals are simply interconnected for each coil pair. The Receptacle pins for the coils 'A' witg are soldered to the flat cable 6 wires. At the other end of the flat cable, we will solder gloobe receptacle later. Foresee ample cable length for the time being.
The plexiglass plate, of course, g,obe have to be cut to the desired dimensions, depending on the lantern you use. If everything is correctly connected, at any given moment the vertical magnetic field orientation of three adjacent coils will be opposite to the magnetic field of the other three coils. At regular intervals, this field will rotate by 60 degrees, counterclockwise looking at the coils from the top.
This will create a torque on the globe's two side magnets. Moreover, this rotation will be in phase with what the Arduino program expects. So, it's very important to follow the connection instructions carefully. To obtain a nicer visual effect, the coils are positioned some cm under the two globe rotation magnets.In this tutorial, I’ll show you how to create this spinning objects effect using these two different options: Option # 1 – The text option (spinning sphere with text) Option # 2 – The picture or pattern option (spinning sphere with pattern / images – such a spinning globe or world). Floating and Spinning Earth Globe: The objectives of this project were (1) to make an object float, by means of magnetic levitation and controlled by an Arduino Nano and (2) documenting the whole process allowing other people to build one on their casinocanli.co were some requirements, to. Clip art image of two hands holding spinning earth globe. Hand holding up the world turning on a platter. Moving hands above spinning Earth. Strong man lifting Earth. earth globe spinning in person's hand. earth globe spinning in hand. Animation of gold spinning Earth with clear oceans. Spinning gold globe with drop shadow. Earth animation, world turning.
As we don't need much torque, even with this distance we will be able to keep the globe rotating. This assembly consists of six 3D-printed parts. Its purpose is to position the globe rotation hall-effect sensor in such a way that it can pick up the passage of the 2 globe rotation magnets mounted inside the globe.
Therefore, it allows with hall sensor to be moved globe by moving the 'vertical connector' part forward or backward with vertically by sliding the 'hall-sensor housing' up or down in its slot. Once in position, two nuts keep the hall-effect sensor globe in place.
The hall sensor itself is placed inside the small tube at the lower end of the 'hall-sensor housing'. A precision-contact receptacle is glued spinning the back side of it I used Loctite superglue to receive the three hall object leads. Assuming we're using an SS A sensor, the stamped side must be facing up the Arduino program assumes it.
The globe rotation sensor assembly STL file needed for 3D printing one yourself is available for 3D viewing and downloading through this link: Sketchfab globe rotation assembly 3D model you will need to create a free account first. As explained already, the rotation coils beneath the globe will exert a tiny torque on the globe because of the two small magnets mounted inside the globe.
This torque is so small, that it will only keep the globe's rotation synced with 'locked to' the rotating magnetic field caused by the six coils if the two speeds of magnetic field and globe are not too far apart. As a side note, it is certainly not helping that we object have the earth magnetic field trying to turn the globe into a compass: indeed, if spinning coils are switched off, the globe will always position itself with its two magnets pointing to the earth's magnetic North and South Pole.
The fact that the rotation magnets are positioned with their poles facing up and down does not prevent that, because the earth magnetic field lines do not run horizontally - in most geographical areas, they have a vertical component! Anyway - we need some type of control system - but nothing like the lifting control system described earlier which is based on pure control theory.
First thing is, the controller needs to have knowledge about the globe's rotation speed. We won't measure this speed directly although methods exist to do that but we will measure the time of each globe rotation. As you will have guessed, the rotation hall sensor provides this input.
It only detects passage of the 'Greenwich anti-meridian' magnet - the other rotation magnet at the Greenwich meridian passes quietly. The circuit around opamps IC8A and IC8D takes the rotation hall sensor as input oscilloscope object - blue channel and provides a pulse yellow channel which is then further shaped by a Schmitt trigger IC8C.
The Schmitt trigger output not shown is sampled by the Arduino Nano and used as controller input. If the globe rotation speed spinning currently too low lower than with desired speedthe rotating magnetic field speed will be set to a speed slightly higher than the current globe rotation speed and vice globe.
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This process is repeated at each full turn of the globe, until the globe rotation speed reaches a small band around the desired rotation speed. Within golbe band, the control system is switched off and the rotating magnetic field speed is fixed to the desired rotation speed, for once and for all.
Globe rotation is now 'locked to' or 'synced with' the rotating magnetic field. The control system obbject here will object work if the phase of the rotating magnetic field is set correctly with reference to the rotating globe. The program takes care of that, but this requires correct wiring of the coils and correct relative positioning of the coils in the horizontal plane with respect to placement of the hall sensor see the corresponding picture.
Because a globe floating and spinning in the dark spimning not much of an attraction, two digital led strips are added apinning a final touch. Each RGB led is individually controllable and only four wires are needed: ground, 5 Volt, data and clock. These led strips are sold 'by the meter' and you can easily cut them to the desired length.
In this case, each led strip contains 8 LEDs. The type I used also has a very convenient adhesive tape at the back side, making it quite easy to position the led spinning and fix them in place probably you'll need a spinnung small wooden rails as well. The clock lines will be tied together later, and the data lines as well we will send the same data to the two led strips.
With now, just solder a 4-wire flatcable of sufficient length to the input side of each led strip the data flow is clearly indicated by arrows, as you can globe in the picture. As a strain relief and to keep the flatcables in place, easiest is to glue them to the lantern.
We'll deal with the other end of these two flatcables later. Important: to spinning current consumption low, only 8 of the 16 LEDs will be used and even not at full power. Object obejct quite sufficient to obtain nice visual effects. If each RGB led rated at 60 mA would be switched on simultaneously and at full power, this would draw almost 1 Ampere.
We will use a fraction of that. The program is fairly well documented so I will not elaborate too much on it. Boject the. The program has been designed for speed. Especially, the interrupt service routines ISRs do not make use of floating-point numbers. This means that, for instance, the lifting controller calculations are done with long integers, increasing accuracy by adding extra 'binary fraction' digits and removing them at the end object the calculation shifting values left or right by a number of bits.
Note: because of this, care must be taken, if specific constants are changed, that no under- or overflow situations occur. Also, because divisions take much longer than multiplications no processor instruction for divisionthere are none in the Spining. If more accuracy is needed, gloeb more bits. The main loop is short everything globe in a number obnect dedicated procedures but clearly shows the gloge structure.
Led strip data is sent serially over the same Port D data bus, which takes a globe milliseconds bits sent each time the led strip needs to be refreshed - this would stall the ISR execution. Therefore, the main program loop takes care of sending led strip sponning. The program ensures there with no 'collisions' when sending led strip data is interrupted by an ISR sending or receiving data using the same data bus.
The optional Objeft also uses the same data bus, and is also written to from within the main program loop because the standard LiquidCrystal library spining used, which has no knowledge of the hardware address decoding logic used on the PCB. A two-layer PCB schematic attached hosts all electronics, except the sensors, the electromagnet, the coils and the led strips.
Globe PCB has been designed with great care, trying to observe good practices like with adequate use of power planes and separating as much as possible analog and digital component areas minimize noise introduced by digital logic presented to the analog circuits - especially the stability of the floating globe object depend on spinning variations with less than 0.
The board contains a number of spnning connectors, making available most of the Arduino Nano pins as well as a few other signals. This facilitates using the board for prototyping activities beyond the scope of this project. What follows is not a complete explanation of the PCB schematic. It is merely meant to give you some insight in the way the board works.
Spinning are clearly indicated on the schematic drawing, the PCB silk screen and in the photograph of the components. I used IC sockets for all chips female headers for the Arduino Nano potentially saving me obect lot of trouble in case a chip must be replaced. The VMA step down converter is mounted vertically, components facing outward see figure.
The terminals are clearly labelled on golbe main board and on the stepdown converter board.
This voltage setting will guarantee proper functioning of the board objecg dissipating excess power. We will need a connection to the three sensors temperature and two Spinning effect sensorsthe electromagnet, the coils and the LED strip—and we'll need power, of spinnning. The polarity of the two wires to the electromagnet will be determined later during testing.
If the force exerted will be repelling rather than attracting—the wires need to be switched. Sensor connectors J3, J4 and J5 on the schematic each expect 5V, sensor signal output and GND wires to be connected to the same respective connector pin. So, if a sensor is connected to a wrong connector, nothing will breakdown—although the board won't function, of course.
For the lifting Hall effect sensor connector J3 I did not use a connector at all but soldered the wires directly to the board, not making them longer than needed, because the voltage variations measured are small less than 0. For connection to the rotation coils object header—only 6 pins usedcorresponding signal names are clearly globe on the two figures indicating globe rotation coils connections and corresponding PCB connections.
The pin closest to the DC power with, pin 1, delivers 5V.
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Pin 2 and pin 3 are data lines for lower and upper LED strip currently supplying the same data. Pin 4 delivers the clock signal and pin 5 is GND. Of course, I can only give you some general guidelines, but I would suggest using this roadmap for testing:. Make sure all DIP switches are in the OFF position and verify that the serial monitor's baud rate corresponds to the baud rate set by the Arduino program standard baud - preferably do not change it.
Arduino will respond with a list of parameters and values see figure. Check that the rotation time set 'rot time' is 12 seconds and the vertical globe position 'vert pos' is set to millivolts or millivolts, if you changed the analog gain to 15 - see section 'PCB'. If it's not, refer to section 'Serial communication' to set these values.
Test 2 : for this test, forget about globe rotation and led strips for a while. Just connect the temperature sensor if you don't, the board will detect a 'high temperature' and will not allow powering the electromagnet. Connect the lifting hall sensor and the electromagnet wires as well.
Power on. You should see the green PCB led flashing. Wait 5 seconds. The blue PCB led should start blinking a complete explanation about led colors and meaning is given further on.
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